We dodged one bus load of Italians dressed in traditional Bamar costume come barrelling out, just as another large tour group was going in wearing shorts and tank tops - past signs forbidding such attire. Despite these first impressions this very famous of Bagan's temples maintains a hushed and reverent atmosphere. Tourists seem to dissappear and small clusters of worshippers respectfully shuffle the clockwise circuit to each of the four immense standing Buddhas.