Li River panorama 2
November 6, 2001

Main street
November 8, 2001

The karst limestone formations that make Yangshuo county such a beautiful area can be seen from almost anywhere in town.

View from a street cafe
November 8, 2001

View from one of the many 'western style' cafes that line the main tourist street in Yangshuo. A crowd has gathered outside to watch a Mahjong game being played.

Inspecting dinner
November 8, 2001

Snake was one of the dishes I had promised myself I would try while in China. After the dog debacle I ordered with great trepidation - how would I feel when the snake arrived from the nearby market? The same market where I had seen the dogs. It was with great solemnity that I studied what was soon going to be killed at my behest and had a special call not been made at 9:30 at night for this snake to be delivered, my courage would have been overwhelmed by my compassion and I would have sent him back. It was a beautiful creature that slithered valiantly when put on the floor, pathetically unable to make any purchase on the slippery tiles. It was altogether a very sad experience.

Snake blood martini
November 8, 2001

The fresh snake blood is dripped into a glass of rice wine and served without a garnish. The first sip tasted like the wine so I was emboldened to take down the rest in a big gulp. The taste of blood was much stronger and I reached for the beer to wash away the taste. Then my mind overcame my natural inclination. How often would I have fresh snake blood? I forced myself to savor the taste by rolling it around on my tongue and breathing deeply through my nose - in case you're wondering, it is much like human blood, just a little less salty and coppery.

Can I put it down now?
November 8, 2001

After all the humiliation the snake has gone through, one last insult waits. His skin is put into a bottle so you can take home a reminder of your violent meal.

No really, is that Sharon Stone?
November 7, 2001

For the second time in our two months in China, Julie is asked to give her opinion on some aspect of Chinese culture. The attention she was getting from this film crew out of Kunming was itself getting attention from Chinese tourist who you can see taking photographs from the background. Her first interview came when a youth newspaper asked her what she had thought of the Naxi orchestra performance in Lijiang. This interviewer asked Julie to compare Yangshuo to Kunming, two places that attract a great deal of tourism.

Choke a cormorant
November 7, 2001

Cormorant fishing takes place at night when the birds stay with the light from the boat. The cormorant swims alongside the puttering boat, frequently diving beneath the surface to catch fish. When they do they resurface and swallow the catch but are prevented from eating it by the string the fisherman ties around their neck. He scoops up any successful bird with the bamboo pole, grabs it by the throat and forces it to disgorge it's catch into the basket. The bird puts up with this because the fisherman lets him eat just enough to keep him going back for more.

Cormorants
November 7, 2001

After about an hour of chasing fish through the water the human part of this fishing team called it a night and the hard working birds gratefully jumped aboard and started drying themselves. One of the less bashful birds then posed cheekily for pictures with tourists, playfully nipping at our fingers.

On the way to Moon hill
November 8, 2001

Consulting the map on the way to Moon hill

Moon Hill
November 7, 2001

View through the arch of Moon Hill

Julie on Moon Hill
November 8, 2001

The hike up Moon hill was so steep a still red faced Julie decided she was going to stay put for a while and read a good book.

Julie on the Li river
November 6, 2001

One afternoon we took a bus to one of the nearby towns on the Li river. From there we found a small boat to take the two of us for cruise up picturesque Li river. The captain spoke no English but was able to point out many of the names for the rock formations by acting them out. We both had a good laugh over monkey rock.

Li River 1
November 6, 2001

Water buffalo on the Li river

Li River 2
November 6, 2001

Bamboo groves on the Li river